Vitamin C Serums for Women Over 50 | Featured In First of Women

Dr. Mona Foad and Dr. Alexandra Bowles expand upon the insights they shared in their recent feature in First of Women: 8 Best Vitamin C Serums for Women Over 50: Brighten Skin, Smooth Wrinkles + More.

What are the benefits of a vitamin C serum?

Dr. Mona Foad

Vitamin C serum has numerous benefits for the skin and is a popular choice in many skincare routines. This powerful antioxidant helps protect the skin by neutralizing free radicals caused by environmental stressors such as UV radiation and pollution. This protection can help prevent premature aging and damage to the skin. It’s also essential for collagen synthesis, a protein that provides structure and elasticity to the skin. By stimulating collagen production, vitamin C can help improve skin firmness and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Vitamin C can also help brighten the complexion by reducing melanin production, the pigment responsible for dark spots and hyperpigmentation. Additionally, it has been shown to help improve skin hydration by enhancing the skin’s moisture barrier. This can result in softer, smoother skin with improved texture. 

Dr. Alexandra Bowles

There are plenty of benefits to using vitamin C on your skin. Not only does it help to hydrate and brighten the skin, but it also acts as an anti-inflammatory agent through its antioxidant capacity to soothe the skin and reduce puffiness. Vitamin C serums can help smooth fine lines by plumping and hydrating the under-eye area. Doing so helps to reduce the appearance of dark circles under the eyes.  While not a substitute for sunscreen, vitamin C can enhance the effectiveness of sunscreens by providing additional protection against UV damage. It helps to neutralize free radicals generated by UV exposure and can reduce the risk of sunburn. Moreover, vitamin C is crucial in the skin’s natural healing process. It can help promote faster wound healing and reduce inflammation, making it beneficial for acne-prone skin and other skin conditions.

What to look for in a vitamin C serum

Dr. Mona Foad

Different forms of vitamin C are used in skincare products, each with its own benefits and stability. Some common forms include:

• L-ascorbic acid (the most researched and potent form)
  • L-ascorbic acid is the pure form of vitamin C. Although it can be very effective, it can also be unstable and prone to oxidation. It can also cause irritation to the skin.
• Ascorbyl palmitate
  • Sodium ascorbyl phosphate is a water-soluble form of vitamin C, like l-ascorbic acid. Although it is more stable and more gentle on the skin, it is not as effective as l-ascorbic acid.
• Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
  • Ascorbyl palmitate is an oil-soluble form of vitamin C that is more stable than L-ascorbic acid. It is less likely to irritate your skin.
• Sodium ascorbyl phosphate
  • Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is also a more stable, oil-soluble form of vitamin C.

Oil-soluble forms of vitamin C penetrate the skin better than L-ascorbic acid. I look for serums with stabilized forms of vitamin C such as Ascorbyl palmitate, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, or encapsulated formulas to maintain potency.

Another thing to consider is the concentration level. Serum vitamin C concentration can vary, typically ranging from 5% to 20%. Higher concentrations may provide more noticeable results but can also increase the risk of irritation, especially for sensitive skin. Start with a lower concentration and gradually increase if your skin tolerates it well.

Also necessary to consider is the pH level of Vitamin C. Vitamin C is most effective at a pH level below 3.5. Look for serums with a pH between 2.5 and 3.5 to ensure optimal absorption and stability of vitamin C.  Look for vitamin C serums that have ferulic acid and vitamin E which can help stabilize and increase penetration of whatever vitamin C you are using.  

Dr. Alexandra Bowles

When choosing a vitamin C serum, it’s important to consider several factors to ensure its effectiveness and compatibility with your skin. Look for serums that contain other beneficial ingredients like:

• Hyaluronic acid: for hydration
• Niacinamide: for brightening and anti-inflammatory effects
• Antioxidants (such as vitamin E or ferulic acid): can enhance the effectiveness of vitamin C
• Peptides: for collagen production

Consider your skin’s specific needs and look for serums that contain complementary ingredients. Consider your skin type and preferences when selecting a serum texture. Vitamin C serums come in various consistencies, including lightweight liquids, gel-like textures, and creamy formulations. Choose a texture that feels comfortable on your skin and integrates well into your skincare routine.

Tips for using a vitamin C serum:

Dr. Mona Foad

To maximize the benefits of a vitamin C serum and ensure its effectiveness, it’s important to use it correctly in your skincare routine. I like to use both Vitamin C and antioxidants in my morning skincare routine. Start by cleansing your face with a gentle cleanser to remove dirt, oil, and impurities. Pat your skin dry with a clean towel. If you use a toner in your skincare routine, apply it after cleansing and before applying the vitamin C serum. Toners can help balance the skin’s pH levels and prepare it to absorb the serum better. Dispense a pea-sized amount of the vitamin C serum onto your fingertips. Gently massage the serum onto your face and neck, using upward and outward strokes. Avoid the eye area unless the serum is specifically formulated for use around the eyes.

Give the serum a couple of minutes to fully absorb into your skin before proceeding with the next step in your skincare routine. This allows vitamin C to penetrate the skin and exert its effects. Apply your regular serums to address other concerns and a moisturizer to lock in hydration and further nourish the skin. Choose a moisturizer suitable for your skin type. Finish off your skincare routine with a broad-spectrum sunscreen to further protect your skin. Incorporate the vitamin C serum into your skincare routine daily for optimal results. Consistency is vital to seeing improvements in your skin’s tone, texture, and overall appearance.

 Dr. Alexandra Bowles

It’s generally recommended to use vitamin C serum in the morning as part of your daytime skincare routine, as it can provide antioxidant protection against environmental stressors like UV radiation and pollution. If you’re applying the vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine, finish with a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher. Vitamin C can enhance the effectiveness of sunscreen and provide additional protection against UV damage. If you prefer to use vitamin C at night, you can still reap its benefits for collagen production and skin repair. If you’re new to using vitamin C serum or have sensitive skin, start by using it every other day and gradually increase to daily use as your skin adjusts. Monitor your skin for any signs of irritation. If you experience redness, itching, or discomfort, reduce the frequency of use or discontinue use altogether.

What are three of the best antioxidant serums?

Best Overall: SkinMedica Vitamin C+E Complex

Dr. Mona: “I recommend SkinMedica’s Vitamin C+E Complex to my patients because it uses tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, which is a more stable, oil-soluble form of vitamin C that can penetrate the skin better than a water-soluble form and causes less skin irritation. It improves the appearance of skin tone and texture by gradually releasing vitamins C and E throughout the day to help prevent free radical damage. It also helps to enhance skin brightness for a more youthful appearance.”

Best Splurge: SkinMedica Lumvive System

Dr. Mona: “Although Vitamin C is a fantastic antioxidant, there are many other antioxidants that have significant benefits. These can include protecting the skin, preventing environmental effects on aging skin, and helping to brighten and illuminate the skin. My favorite non-vitamin C antioxidant product is SkinMedica Lumivive System which is an antioxidant system that both helps to protect your skin during the day and repair the damage that was done while you sleep. This formulation of antioxidants is the next generation of ways to protect our skin and prevent the signs of aging.”

Best Drugstore: La Roche-Posay Vitamin C Serum 10%

Dr. Mona: “For a drugstore serum, I would recommend either La Roche-Posay’s Vitamin C Serum 10% or Pure Vitamin C Face Cream. These are both budget-friendly options that don’t compromise on quality. The 10% Pure Vitamin C Serum from La Roche Posay is good for acne-prone patients. I like that it is formulated with the water-soluble form of vitamin C (ascorbic acid). It also contains some salicylic acid to help with acne and exfoliation.  The Pure Vitamin C Face Cream is formulated with 5% vitamin C and hyaluronic acid. It also contains Madecassoside, a derivative of Centella Asiatica, which has healing properties.

“For a true vitamin C, I recommend Phloretin CF with Ferulic Acid. This highly potent and effective vitamin C serum combines 10% L-ascorbic acid with 2% phloretin and 0.5% ferulic acid for enhanced antioxidant protection and collagen synthesis. It helps brighten the skin, reduce fine lines and wrinkles, and protect against environmental damage. Despite being pricier, its efficacy and proven results make it a favorite among skincare enthusiasts and professionals.”

Best Vitamin C with SPF: ColoreScience Total Protection Face Shield

Dr. Alexandra:”I always advise my patients to wear sunscreen to protect their skin’s appearance and health. I often recommend ColoreScience Total Protection Face Shield (Glow) as the best vitamin C serum with SPF. This antioxidant-rich mineral protector protects against UVA/UVB, pollution, blue light, and infrared radiation. The formula is hydrating while providing a pearlescent, illuminating skin glow.”

Best Vitamin C for Dry Skin: SkinMedica Dermal Repair Cream

Dr. Alexandra: “For individuals with dry skin, I recommend SkinMedica Dermal Repair Cream as the best vitamin C product for dry skin. With an elegant cream base, this product visibly improves uneven tone, radiance, elasticity, and firmness without irritation. With vitamin C, vitamin E, and hyaluronic acid, this product brightens the skin and improves sun damage while hydrating the skin.

Best Vitamin C for Sensitive Skin: SkinCeuticals Silymarin CF

As for a vitamin C serum for sensitive skin, SkinCeuticals Silymarin CF is a patented daytime vitamin C antioxidant face serum that provides advanced environmental protection and diminishes the appearance of fine lines and discoloration.”