Discover Dr. Alexandra Bowles’ insights on the growing trend of “hygiene hauls” and multi-step skincare routines with scented products in Beauty Matter.

 

What are your thoughts on the rise of hygiene routine videos with up to 6 different steps of scented body products?

First and foremost, I think it is wonderful that people are starting to prioritize their skin health and hygiene. However, as a dermatologist, I know that scented products can increase the risk of irritation. They even can cause contact dermatitis, eczema flare-ups, or irritate acne-prone skin. Scented products are not innately bad as long it’s not creating issues with your skin.

How high is the risk of contact dermatitis or another allergic reaction from these types of routines?

Using multiple different scented body products can increase the risk of contact dermatitis or an allergic reaction. This is because you’re layering multiple ingredients that your skin might not tolerate well. Fragrances—whether synthetic or natural, like essential oils—are some of the most common triggers of irritation. Adding preservatives or colorants to the mix can make it more likely for irritation to occur. Thinner skin areas like your neck or underarms are more prone to a reaction. If you’re noticing any redness, itching, or discomfort, try reducing the number of products you use or swapping for fragrance-free options. I also recommend patch-testing new products on a small area of skin before applying them more widely. If irritation continues, a dermatologist can help identify which ingredient might be causing the problem.

Have you been seeing any increase in patients coming in with issues related to these extensive and highly fragrant body care routines? 

Yes! I have definitely noticed an uptick in patients presenting with things like perioral dermatitis, eyelid eczema, and acne flares. There does seem to be a common denominator with some of these patients who have recently started an extensive skin routine or added in new products. It can be difficult to pinpoint the culprit due to multiple products being added to their routine at once. I recommend adding in new products one at a time. You can also do a test spot to make sure it is compatible with your skin type. I advise patients who struggle with eczema or sensitive skin to avoid scented products when possible.

 

In Dr. Alexandra Bowles recent feature in Girl’s Life, she discussed the growing trend of skin drinks: do they really work and should they have a place in your skincare regimen?

 

Are there any drinks or snacks with beauty benefits that you believe actually work?

Some drinks and snacks are often promoted for their beauty benefits. Whether they “actually work” can depend on individual factors such as diet, lifestyle, and genetics. For example, while water is essential for overall health, skin hydration, and detoxification. Green tea is another great choice as it’s rich in antioxidants. For example, catechins, which can help protect the skin from damage. It can also improve skin elasticity and reduce inflammation to improve skin health. Collagen drinks also improve skin elasticity and hydration and reduce wrinkles. Furthermore, aloe vera juice is known for its soothing properties and may help with skin hydration. 

When considering snacks, berries are high in antioxidants, vitamins, and fiber. This can help combat free radicals and potentially lead to healthier skin. Nuts and seeds like almonds and flax seeds contain vitamin E and omega-3 fatty acids. These are rich in essential fatty acids, vitamins, and minerals and good for skin health. Another snack to consider is dark chocolate which contains flavonoids, antioxidants that can improve skin texture and provide UV protection. Avocados are also packed with healthy fats, vitamins, and antioxidants that help to maintain skin moisture and elasticity.

When choosing skin drinks, what ingredients should you look for and avoid?

If someone wants to try trendy “beauty-enhancing” products, one of the most important things to look out for is clinical studies on the particular product or brand that supports their claims. Even if a product contains good ingredients, without clinical studies, there is no way to know for sure that the ingredients are in a high enough dose or proper formulation to create the desired effect.

That being said, some key ingredients to look for may include antioxidants like Vitamins C and E, which protect the skin from oxidative stress and free radicals, and collagen peptides that help improve skin elasticity and hydration and reduce wrinkles. Also, look for hyaluronic acid, which helps with skin hydration and plumpness; biotin (vitamin B7), which supports skin, hair, and nails; and essential fatty acids like omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids that help maintain the skin’s lipid barrier and reduce inflammation. Additionally, look for probiotics that promote gut health, and natural extracts like green tea extract, aloe vera, and turmeric that provide anti-inflammatory and soothing properties to help with overall skin health. 

On the other hand, some ingredients to avoid include high sugar content, which damages collagen and elastin in the skin, leading to premature aging. I would also recommend avoiding artificial additives and preservatives, which can cause inflammation and other adverse reactions in some people. Avoid high sodium levels, which can lead to dehydration and negatively affect skin health and trans fat. This is linked to inflammation and poor skin health; and excess caffeine, which can also lead to dehydration and negatively impact the skin. 

Is there a difference between pre-made skin drinks versus beauty powders?

The primary difference between pre-made products and powdered additives lies in convenience, customization, ingredient stability, and sometimes the formulation. Pre-made products like canned beverages are convenient because they are ready to drink without preparation but are limited by customizing ingredients or adjusting dosage. Pre-made products are consistent in taste and ingredient mix but may contain preservatives or additives to ensure shelf stability. They are formulated to maintain ingredient stability over time and are pre-measured into serving sizes for easier portion control. On the other hand, powdered additives allow for more customization. Customers can control the amount of powder added to drinks and versatility by how they consume it, whether by food or drink. Powders also have fewer preservatives, and you mix them fresh, potentially preserving more of the ingredient’s efficacy. 

When considering using collagen and probiotics in pre-made versus powdered drinks, collagen in pre-made drinks is usually hydrolyzed (broken down into smaller peptides) for easier absorption. In contrast, hydrolyzed collagen powder can be easily mixed into various liquids, offering flexibility in terms of dosage. It can also be combined with other supplements if desired. Probiotics in pre-made drinks must be formulated carefully to ensure they remain viable. Look for products that guarantee live cultures at the time of consumption. On the other hand, probiotic powders need to be stored properly to maintain their viability. When mixed fresh, they may be more likely to deliver live cultures, provided they have been stored correctly. 

What advice do you have for getting beauty-boosting ingredients through diet rather than supplements?

Beauty-boosting ingredients through whole foods are often recommended for overall health and wellness. One of the best ingredients and whole food sources to look for include antioxidants such as berries (blueberries, strawberries, raspberries), dark leafy greens (spinach, kale), nuts (almonds, walnuts), and dark chocolate. Add berries to your breakfast cereal or yogurt, include leafy greens in salads or smoothies, snack on nuts, and enjoy a small piece of dark chocolate as a treat.

Another ingredient is Vitamin C, found in citrus fruits (oranges, grapefruits, lemons), bell peppers, strawberries, and broccoli. Drink a glass of fresh orange juice, add bell peppers to salads or stir-fries, snack on strawberries, and include broccoli in your meals. Vitamin E, found in nuts (almonds, hazelnuts), seeds (sunflower seeds), and avocados, is another excellent beauty-boosting ingredient. Snack on a handful of nuts, sprinkle seeds on your salads or oatmeal, and add avocado to your sandwiches or smoothies. 

Other ingredients include Omega-3 fatty acids found in fatty fish (salmon, mackerel, sardines), flaxseeds, chia seeds, and walnuts, and biotin (Vitamin B7), found in eggs, nuts, seeds, sweet potatoes, and spinach which can all be incorporated into your daily meals routines.

Is there a reason to add these skin drinks or other supplements to your routine?

Adding wellness-enhancing drinks and snacks to your routine can provide several benefits. However, it’s essential to approach them as supplements rather than replacements for a balanced diet and healthy lifestyle. For one, these products can offer a quick and easy way to boost your nutrient intake. This can happen especially if you have a busy lifestyle or find it challenging to consume a variety of whole foods daily.

Ready-to-drink beverages, powders, and snacks can be consumed on the go, making it easier to stick to a wellness routine. Many of these products are also formulated to address specific health needs, such as hydration, skin health, or energy levels. They often contain concentrated doses of beneficial ingredients that might be harder to obtain in significant amounts from food alone. They enhance hydration with added electrolytes, vitamins, and minerals. It can provide targeted nutrients that might be lacking in your diet, supporting overall health and wellness.

As for hydration multipliers, the benefits of Liquid IV are that it contains electrolytes, vitamins B and C. It’s designed to improve hydration more effectively than water alone, and is excellent for rehydrating after exercise, travel, or illness. LMNT is high in electrolytes like sodium, potassium, and magnesium, with no added sugar, and is ideal for athletes or those following low-carb diets who need to replenish electrolytes. Nuun tablets, another hydration multiplier, are electrolyte tablets with various flavors and added vitamins, are low in sugar, and are convenient for daily hydration and physical activity. 

What advice would you give to teen girls specifically when it comes to eating and drinking with beauty benefits in mind?

When advising teen girls about eating and drinking with beauty benefits in mind, keeping the guidance simple, practical, and focused on overall health rather than just aesthetics is essential. Some key points include eating a balanced diet, staying hydrated, and being cautious with trends. By incorporating a range of fruits, vegetables, whole grains, lean proteins, and healthy fats into your daily nutrition, you can maintain a balanced diet that provides you with all the essential nutrients your body needs to stay healthy and look its best. Focus on nutrient-rich foods like antioxidants (berries, leafy greens, and nuts). This helps protect your skin from damage and keep it looking healthy. Eat healthy fat foods like avocados, nuts, and fish to help maintain skin elasticity and hydration. Ensure you get enough vitamins A, C, and E, zinc, and biotin. These nutrients are crucial for maintaining healthy skin, hair, and nails.

Additionally, drinking plenty of water throughout the day keeps you hydrated. It helps maintain skin moisture and overall health, so aim for at least eight glasses daily. Furthermore, before trying trendy beauty drinks or snacks, check the ingredient list for added sugars, artificial additives, and preservatives. Some products may claim to be healthy but contain ingredients that can be harmful or counterproductive. More importantly, however, listen to your body. Don’t follow fads blindly. Just because a beauty product is popular doesn’t mean it’s right for you.

Do your research and listen to your body’s needs. What works for one person may not work for another. It’s essential to find what makes you feel good and healthy. Strive for balance in your diet and lifestyle. It’s okay to enjoy treats occasionally as part of a healthy diet. A balanced approach to eating and drinking is sustainable and more beneficial in the long run.

What ingredients/foods/drinks would you recommend to help with acne-prone skin? 

When dealing with acne, diet and lifestyle can significantly manage and improve skin condition. Some foods and ingredients to consider adding to your diet include high-fiber foods. This includes whole grains, fruits, vegetables, and legumes. This can help regulate blood sugar levels, reducing insulin spikes that may trigger acne. Also, Omega-3 fatty acids like fatty fish (salmon, mackerel), flaxseeds, chia seeds, walnuts. Omega-3s have anti-inflammatory properties that can help reduce acne inflammation. Probiotic-rich foods such as yogurt, kefir, sauerkraut, kimchi, and kombucha can support gut health. This can have a positive impact on skin health and reduce inflammation.

Other ingredients to consider include vitamin A-rich foods like sweet potatoes, carrots, spinach, and kale. This can help reduce sebum production. It can also reduce vitamin E-rich foods such as almonds, sunflower seeds, and avocados. This can help protect the skin from damage and support healing. Green Tea also contains antioxidants and has anti-inflammatory properties that can help reduce acne.

Some foods and ingredients to avoid include High Glycemic Index (GI), This includes foods such as sugary snacks, white bread, white rice, and sugary cereals. These cause blood sugar spikes, leading to increased insulin levels and potential acne flare-ups, and dairy products like milk, cheese, and ice-cream. Some studies suggest that dairy can increase sebum production and hormone levels, which may contribute to acne. Avoid processed and junk foods like fast food, chips, cookies, and sodas. These foods are often high in unhealthy fats, sugars, and additives that can exacerbate acne. Excessive caffeine and sugary drinks can also increase stress hormones and blood sugar levels, which can further contribute to acne.

What else do you have to share about skin drinks and beauty supplements?

Don’t overthink it! I think it is important to highlight that while some foods may be more beneficial than others regarding health and wellness. Life is too short not to enjoy the foods you love! If something you like has “bad” ingredients, you can still have it, just do so in moderation. Making healthy choices while preserving your happiness is key to a long, healthy life!

Pregnancy skin care is a hot topic and while Dr. Bowles shares general recommendations in this article, most things have never been tested in pregnancy therefore we don’t definitively know their effects on a baby. We recommend consulting your dermatologist or obstetrician (OB) before using any products in pregnancy.

Read along while Dr. Alexandra Bowles shares her insights from her Women’s Health feature on how your skin can be affected during pregnancy.

1. How exactly does a woman’s skin change during pregnancy? What are some things to keep an eye on or conditions that can occur? I know everyone is different, but generally, is pregnant skin more susceptible to anything in particular or in need of anything extra to stay healthy?

During pregnancy, a woman’s skin goes through more changes than you think. This is due to several factors, including, hormonal changes, an increase in blood volume, and other physiological factors. Lots of women experience oilier skin, leading to acne, while others may notice melasma or a dark line down the abdomen called linea nigra. Stretch marks also may develop as the belly grows, and some women may see an increase in spider veins or experience dry, itchy skin. Medical conditions like PUPPP, a rash characterized by itchy bumps, or cholestasis, a serious condition that causes intense itching, can also occur and warrants an immediate trip to the OBGYN.

To keep skin healthy, staying hydrated, using fragrance-free moisturizers, applying sunscreen, and practicing gentle cleansing are key. A balanced diet rich in vitamins and antioxidants can also support skin health. It’s essential for pregnant women to consult with a dermatologist if they experience severe skin changes and to be mindful of avoiding certain ingredients, like retinoids, during this time.

I know certain skincare products and active ingredients can be unsafe during pregnancy. For each of the following, can you explain why each is not recommended for use during pregnancy? Retinol/Tazorac/Accutane, Salicylic acid, Chemical sunscreen, Benzoyl peroxide, Hydroquinone, Essential oils.

Consider steering clear of the following products if you are pregnant or planning to become pregnant. Pregnancy skin care is a hot topic and while we have recommendations, most things have never been tested in pregnancy therefore we don’t definitively know their effects on a baby. Retinol and retinoids, a form of vitamin A, can lead to catastrophic birth defects, especially in the early months. Both Tazorac (a topical retinoid) and Accutane/isotretinoin (oral retinoid) are very powerful acne treatments that can lead to serious birth defects, so these are absolutely medications to avoid!

Salicylic acid can affect fetal development, so it’s best to avoid strong formulas like this. Even some chemical sunscreens could disrupt hormone levels and have reproductive toxicity concerns. Benzoyl peroxide might irritate your skin and do more harm than good. We really don’t even know enough about its effects during pregnancy, so it’s better to be safe. Hydroquinone, an ingredient known to lighten the skin, can get absorbed into the bloodstream and may harm your baby. Many essential oils can also cause unwanted reactions or even stimulate contractions. Again, these ingredients have not been studied in pregnancy, so if there is ever a question it is best to consult your dermatologist before using new products in pregnancy. 

3. I’ve also heard that hair dye can be bad during pregnancy. Do you have any watch outs or recommendations here? Are any products in this category appropriate to use?

Hair dye could cause some potential concerns during pregnancy, though it’s usually pretty safe if you take some precautions and do your research. A lot of women actually wait until the second trimester to dye their hair since that’s when the baby’s major organs are developing. If you want to be extra cautious, consider using a semi-permanent or ammonia-free dye. When it comes to hair techniques, highlights or balayage are a great option since no dye is actually touching your scalp. If you decide to go see a stylist, you can even ask for gentle and chemical-free products. 

4. Is there anything else product or ingredient-wise not listed above that should be avoided?

Certain oral medications should not be used in pregnancy. An example would be someone taking oral spironolactone for acne before conception. This should be stopped when you are expecting. Truly, the list of pregnancy-safe ingredients is short and the ‘do not use’ list is vast. Make sure you are checking with your OBGYN when questioning any particular skincare/medication/foods.

5. During pregnancy, what treatments and procedures should be avoided and why (ex. Botox, fillers, chemical peels, lasers, etc.)?

 Botox and fillers contain toxins that could possibly affect the fetus, so I recommend avoiding them altogether. Chemical peels are also unsafe, as they use strong acids that can really irritate the skin and eventually may get absorbed into your system. Laser treatments can lead to an increase in pigmentation and skin sensitivity, and there’s not enough research on this to determine if it’s safe during pregnancy, therefore we typically do not recommend this. Plus, steer clear of tanning beds since they expose you to harmful UV rays and can lead to overheating as well as increase skin cancer risks later in life.

Some essential oils can also trigger contractions or allergic reactions, so it’s best to avoid those unless you’ve checked with your healthcare provider. Lastly, electrolysis and laser hair removal might not be recommended because pregnancy hormones can disrupt your skin and hair growth. Always check with your doctor before trying any cosmetic treatments during pregnancy to make sure everything’s safe!

6. Are there any safe skincare treatments for pregnancy?

There are actually a lot of safe skincare treatments you can enjoy during pregnancy. Keeping your skin hydrated is the first step. Make sure you are using a gentle and fragrance-free moisturizer to avoid any irritation. Also, gentle and mild cleansers are a great option, and definitely don’t forget a mineral sunscreen. To focus on hydration, choose a face mask with ingredients like aloe vera or honey–these can help rejuvenate your skin. Natural oils like coconut or jojoba oil are great for moisturizing. Lots of spas offer pregnancy-safe facials, so be sure to let your esthetician know you’re expecting! 

7. Generally speaking, I’ve read the following skincare ingredients are safe for use during pregnancy. Glycolic acid and bakuchiol, azelaic acid, vitamin c/niacinamide, and mineral sunscreen. Does your research corroborate this, and if so, do you have any specific product recommendations in each category below that you like or would advise patients it’s safe to use?

This is correct! Glycolic acid, azelaic acid, vitamin C, niacinamide, and mineral sunscreen are generally considered to be safe to use during pregnancy. Bakuchiol is commonly used as an alternative to retinol, however, there have been no studies on bakuchiol and pregnancy, so it is best to avoid it. Prescription azelaic acid is also typically considered safe to use. Lastly, for expecting mothers who want a vitamin C in their routine, Phloretin and CE Ferulic are great options noted as pregnancy-safe by Skinceuticals. 

8. Is there anything else you recommend to pregnant women in your practice? If so, where would they use it, and what benefits does it offer?

I recommend gentle skincare, focusing on hydration and mineral sunscreen. After, add in a few fun treatments to make you feel refreshed and bright! Three options my pregnant patients love are diamond glow facials, oxygen facials, and dermaplaning. Each of these are safe and effective treatments to make your skin shine!