How To Get Rid Of Adult Acne | Featured In Woman’s World
Dr. Mona Foad expands upon the insights she shared in her recent Woman’s World feature: How To Get Rid of Adult Acne, Plus Doctors Pinpoint Why Women Over 40 Deal with Breakouts
What causes skin to be acne-prone?
A combination of genetic, hormonal, and environmental factors can cause acne-prone skin. One factor is excess sebum production by the sebaceous glands in the skin, which can clog pores. Hormonal changes, particularly androgens, can also increase sebum production. This is why acne is common during puberty, menstruation, pregnancy, and in conditions like polycystic ovary syndrome (PCOS). Another factor is clogged pores, whereby dead skin cells that do not shed properly can mix with sebum and clog hair follicles, forming comedones (whiteheads and blackheads). Bacterial growth in clogged pores and inflammation caused by this bacterium in the pores also play a crucial role in acne development, leading to redness, swelling, and pus.
Additionally, genetics can determine how much sebum your skin produces, how your skin cells shed, and your body’s inflammatory response, all of which can make you more prone to acne. Some studies also suggest that diets high in refined sugars and dairy products may exacerbate acne. Stress is another factor that can cause acne since it increases hormone levels that stimulate sebum production. Frequent touching of the face, wearing tight clothing, or using items like helmets and backpacks can cause further friction and pressure on the skin, leading to acne mechanica.
What is a good skin care regimen for someone with acne-prone skin?
A good skincare regimen for someone with acne-prone skin should focus on keeping the skin clean, reducing excess oil, and minimizing pore blockage without causing irritation. I always recommend a morning and evening skincare routine for my patients.
For a morning routine, start by using a gentle, non-comedogenic cleanser such as La Roche-Posay Effaclar Gel Facial Wash to remove excess oil and impurities. Using a toner is optional, but if you choose to do so, opt for one that is alcohol-free and contains soothing ingredients like witch hazel or glycolic acid to help exfoliate and remove any leftover impurities.
Next, apply a serum with active ingredients like salicylic acid, niacinamide, or tea tree oil to target acne. Niacinamide can also help reduce inflammation and control oil production. I like to recommend SkinCeuticals Silymarin CF to my patients. Use a lightweight, non-comedogenic moisturizer to hydrate the skin without clogging pores. Elta MD Moisture Seal is a moisturizer I typically recommend to my patients. Finally, apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30. Sunscreen is crucial to protect the skin from UV damage, which can worsen acne and cause hyperpigmentation. EltaMD UV Facial SPF 30+ Dry is a great sunscreen product I highly recommend.
For an evening routine, start with cleansing the skin to remove makeup, sunscreen, and daily grime. Next, apply targeted acne treatments that can be stronger, like retinoids, which can promote cell turnover and prevent clogged pores. Finally, make sure to use a non-comedogenic moisturizer (same as your morning routine) to keep the skin hydrated. It’s essential even for oily skin to maintain the moisture barrier.
What ingredients should they look for?
Certain ingredients can help manage and prevent breakouts for acne-prone skin while keeping the skin balanced and healthy. Some ingredients to look for include salicylic acid, a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) that penetrates pores to exfoliate and reduce sebum production, and glycolic acid, an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that exfoliates the skin’s surface to remove dead skin cells. For serums, look for niacinamide to reduce inflammation, retinoids to promote cell turnover, unclog pores, and reduce the appearance of acne and fine lines, and zinc to help control sebum production.
When it comes to moisturizers, look for hyaluronic acid to hydrate the skin without clogging pores, ceramides to restore and maintain the skin barrier, and aloe vera to soothe and hydrate the skin. For sunscreens, opt for non-comedogenic formulations specifically designed not to clog pores, as well as mineral sunscreens with zinc oxide and titanium dioxide that provide broad-spectrum protection with less risk of irritation. If you like to use mask treatments, look for products that include charcoal to draw out impurities and help detoxify the skin and clay, which helps to absorb excess oil and unclog pores.
What ingredients should they avoid?
Avoiding certain ingredients that can exacerbate breakouts or cause irritation is crucial for someone with acne-prone skin. Avoid comedogenic ingredients like heavy oils and butters, waxes, and silicones that clog pores and contribute to acne formation. Additionally, steer clear of irritating ingredients such as alcohol and both synthetic and natural fragrances. You’ll also want to avoid harsh exfoliants like apricot and walnut shell powder. All of these ingredients can cause inflammation, irritation, and worsen acne.
Product recommendations for acne-prone skin
For acne-prone skin, using products that help keep the skin clear without causing further irritation or breakouts is essential. The cleanser I typically recommend is the La Roche-Posay Effaclar Medicated Gel Cleanser. I like that it contains 2% salicylic acid to target acne and clear pores. For a serum, I like La Roche-Posay Effaclar Serum. For a moisturizer, CeraVe PM Facial Moisturizing Lotion is a non-comedogenic, oil-free moisturizer with niacinamide and hyaluronic acid. These ingredients will help to control oil. EltaMD UV Clear Broad-Spectrum SPF 46 is a lightweight sunscreen that protects against UVA and UVB rays. It is also formulated with niacinamide to help calm the skin. Differin Gel is an over-the-counter retinoid that helps prevent and treat acne by promoting cell turnover.